Short answer
In practice, no: Saudi law does not allow non-Muslims into Makkah, and Muslims should respect that. In fiqh, most scholars bar non-Muslims from the sacred zone of Makkah based on the Quran. The Hanafi school reads the verse as barring them from Hajj and umrah, not from every entry. All allow them into Madinah.
The ayah forbids polytheists from performing Hajj and umrah and from taking charge of the Sacred Mosque; it does not, in the Hanafi reading, ban every entry, and al-Hidaya allows a non-Muslim under Muslim protection to enter the Sacred Mosque. Entering Madinah is allowed.
Other madhhabs
- Shafi'i and Hanbali
- Non-Muslims may not enter the Haram of Makkah at all, even to pass through, but may enter Madinah and other mosques with permission.
- Maliki
- Non-Muslims are barred from the Haram of Makkah and should not enter any mosque.
Explanation
The Quran says the polytheists should "not approach al-Masjid al-Haram after this, their final year". In the year this was revealed, Abu Bakr led the Hajj and the announcement was made at Mina that no polytheist would perform Hajj after that year and no one would circle the House naked.
The majority of scholars take "al-Masjid al-Haram" to mean the whole Haram of Makkah, so a non-Muslim may not enter it. Hanafi jurists read the verse together with that announcement: what is banned is their Hajj, their rites and their control of the House. This is a real difference among respected scholars, held calmly on both sides.
Today: the Saudi authorities do not admit non-Muslims to Makkah, and the roads have checkpoints marking the boundary. Muslims should follow the law of the country and not bring a non-Muslim friend or spouse in. Madinah is open to non-Muslim visitors, though access to the area around the Prophet's Mosque can change, so check current rules.
- Converting to visit: Islam is a matter of sincere belief. Someone who truly believes is welcome; saying the shahadah only to get in is not what Islam asks.
- Zamzam: a non-Muslim may drink zamzam brought out of Makkah.
- Non-Muslims in other mosques: the Hanafi school allows them to enter with respect.
The evidence
Quran, Surah At-Tawba 9:28
يَٰٓأَيُّهَا ٱلَّذِينَ ءَامَنُوٓا۟ إِنَّمَا ٱلْمُشْرِكُونَ نَجَسٌۭ فَلَا يَقْرَبُوا۟ ٱلْمَسْجِدَ ٱلْحَرَامَ بَعْدَ عَامِهِمْ هَٰذَا ۚ وَإِنْ خِفْتُمْ عَيْلَةًۭ فَسَوْفَ يُغْنِيكُمُ ٱللَّهُ مِن فَضْلِهِۦٓ إِن شَآءَ ۚ إِنَّ ٱللَّهَ عَلِيمٌ حَكِيمٌۭ ﴿٢٨﴾
O you who have believed, indeed the polytheists are unclean, so let them not approach al-Masjid al-Haram after this, their [final] year. And if you fear privation, Allah will enrich you from His bounty if He wills. Indeed, Allah is Knowing and Wise.
The verse on which the scholars' discussion turns.
Sahih al-Bukhari 1622
Sahih... ألا لا يحج بعد العام مشرك ولا يطوف بالبيت عريان ...
"After this year no polytheist will perform Hajj, and no one will circle the House naked."
The announcement the Hanafis use to explain the verse.
Where the ruling is recorded
- al-Hidaya, Kitab al-Karahiyah, on non-Muslims entering the Sacred Mosque. Allows a non-Muslim under Muslim protection to enter the Sacred Mosque.
- Radd al-Muhtar (Ibn Abidin), Kitab al-Jihad, on non-Muslims in the Arabian Peninsula. Explains the Hanafi reading of the verse.
- al-Mughni (Ibn Qudama), Kitab al-Jizyah, on non-Muslims entering the Haram. The Hanbali ban on non-Muslims entering the Haram of Makkah.
Checked by our team. For a more accurate answer to your own situation, consult a scholar. Quran translation by Sahih International. Hadith Arabic from the standard editions of the six books and the Muwatta, with gradings as recorded there; the English is our own rendering. Spotted a mistake? Tell us.